Ho Ho BBQ

In Chinatown, every block has a few windows adorned with glistening pigs and ducks hanging from hooks. But nowhere is the cured and roasted pork better than in this strip mall in Scarborough. Nowhere else is the skin as crispy as a creme brulee top, the meat as soft as fresh doughnuts. The owner cleaves off chunks and hands them over in take-out containers without fanfare, as if perfection were a common commodity.