Marrakech as Morocco opens its borders: from a sidecar route to a desert camp
Thursday,
24
June
2021
–
01:25
There are many ways to discover the red city once the gates of the Alawite country are reopened to tourists. But few like this: in a balloon or on a sidecar through the streets of the ‘souk’. And everything, organized a la carte by an icon hotel like La Mamounia, one of the best in the world.
Marrakech in sidecar, a different way of touring the city.
At four o’clock in the afternoon a string of vintage sidecars, the same as those used by the gendarmes to guard the medina of Marrakech in the 50s, awaits in the esplanade of the main entrance of The Mamounia, hotel-icon of the Moroccan city, one of the best urban accommodations in the world and “the most wonderful place on the planet” according to Winston Churchill. And the five-star British politician knew full well: which one worth it was he not in? As a tribute, this former palace converted into a luxury hotel in 1923 it has a suite and a bar with his name on it.
It is one of the places that one should know if you visit the city now that Morocco’s borders open again international tourism. In addition, Churchill’s bar is part of the meticulous reform undertaken in La Mamounia just a few months ago, with novelties such as a elegant tea room, a asian restaurant and another Italian signed by chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, lounge with dj, private cinema with 27 seats and wine cellar with 2,000 first-class wine references.
We return to the sidecar, since in the majestic entrance of the hotel based on columns, tiles and mosaics of arabic-andalusian style waiting for the smiling Hussein Belaid, guide and pilot, who advances the route on wheels proposed by La Mamounia as one of the premium experiences it offers its guests and whose purpose is “to discover Marrakech in a different and exclusive way”, explains Denys Courtier, its regional Marketing director. Other options: shopping routes with personal shopper, wine tastingballoon rides… To do this, the hotel contacts local companies, who design tailor-made programs.
Immersion in the maze of the souk
In the case of the sidecar tour, it is Marrakech Insiders, which organizes tours on board a Chang Jiang 750 characteristic of the First World War by the most hidden corners of the city. The one in question lasts three hours and costs 1,955 dirhams (185 euros). The first thing that Belaid does after placing the helmet to the riders (one is accommodated in the motorcycle behind him and another, in the side seat) is to explain why this metropolis is called the Red City. “It was the tone of the adobe houses of the first Berbers and has remained”. Of course, the first stop takes place in the “only white house in the city”, emphasizes the guide, located in Gueliz, the French quarter.
Towards it he goes while telling that it is the residence of the Gaulish consul, but that before it was the sumptuous prince Moulay Ali’s palace. Its interior still houses magnificent works by Moroccan goldsmiths. They must be seen. Gueliz it is also characterized by its art deco buildings, chic shops, art galleries and jewelry such as the Garden Mayorelle, former property of designer Yves Saint Laurent, who after staying in La Mamounia chose Marrakech as a dwelling, inspiration and refuge until his death.
Back to the sidecar it is time to surround the mosque of Koutoubia, referent that reminds the Giralda of Seville. “It’s the same, isn’t it?”, Belaid lets out, dodging unheard-of traffic with unheard of ease. The most complicated automobile feat comes to the enter the souk, that hive of labyrinthine alleys in which stands alternate beautiful pashminas with others of spices and leather bags, raw meat hanging in the air and exorbitant antiques prices.
In between, donkey carts with chickens, lettuces and oranges in tow; motorcycles speeding up conscientiously; coming and going of their own and strangers… and the sidecar. Our cicerone remembers that in the souk rodó Alfred Hitchcock in 1955 the man who knew too much. He stayed, of course, in La Mamounia. The journey continues in the Mellah, the Jewish quarter, and the Badi Palace to finish, with picnic included, in the palm grove, an oasis of 15,000 hectares.
Dinner in the middle of the desert
The individualized plans of La Mamounia continue with a luxury camping in the Agafay desert, an hour from Marrakech. The transfer by Land Rover Defender it allows you to know the Berber peoples of the area, “those who still live on their livestock and the production of argan oil”, says Guillaume Charbonnel, head of Alcimat, an agency that organizes exclusive expeditions like this. The welcome to the tent it is made with dates, as it is styled in the desert, although the almond milk that usually accompanies them is replaced by champagne. Before sunset you can also take a donkey or dromedary ride through the rugged highlands of the kik plateau, frequented by hikers.
The candlelight cocktail that comes after it has been designed the chef of La Mamounia and it’s made up of local delicacies like chickpea hummus and eggplant, pastels (a plate of puff pastry, chicken, onion and nuts), feta cheese salad… The classic tajine (meat stew) can not miss. During the dinner in the desert (from 230 euros the complete plan), served by the hotel waiters, there is a wine tasting followed by a cassiopeia master classandromedas, big bears and company. It is taught by Charbonnel, an astronomical expert. The starry night gives for it.
It’s time to go up in a balloon to see the city from above or explore the mountains of Jbilet, in the foothills of the Atlas, 30 minutes from Marrakech (transfer, flight of one hour and breakfast from 190 euros). There has set up its headquarters the Catalan Quim Boet, pilot and owner of the company Ciel d’Afrique. The ascent takes place at dawn and is accompanied by a coffee in the heights while through the landscape some oasis, a goat farm and a village of adobe houses. And in the background, always the Atlas. The authentic Berber breakfast with tea, scrambled eggs, fluffy Moroccan bread, fresh fruit and puff pastries is served on land, already in the camp. The datesagain, they welcome the visitor.
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